07 A8 Rear Brake Pads Worn Out Again

Replacement of rear rotors and pads is an like shooting fish in a barrel task, fifty-fifty if you've never washed it earlier. Consider replacing both if your rotors take 50,000 miles or more on them. This volition prevent you from having to do the job over again anytime soon. Plus, y'all don't take to go the rotors turned, which tin exist a existent hassle if it is not done correctly or you don't have two vehicles.

If the rear brake pads are worn downwardly, the fronts are probably not far backside. Check them while doing the rears. The rears DO Non have wearable sensors. When the brake pad bankroll plate comes in contact with the rotor and metal to metal contact is heard, yous will know it's fourth dimension to practise the rears!

All A8'south and S8's had the aforementioned rear brakes. This procedure is applicative to all models.

Special Tools Required

• 8 mm Allen wrench to fit to a iii/8" rachet bulldoze (only needed if replacing rotors)
• Big C-clamp to button the piston back in the caliper
• Channel locks or Harbor Freight tool to push the piston back in the caliper
• Metric sockets
• 15 mm open ended wrench
• Caliper lube
• Brake cleaner and rags

Restriction Components
The post-obit picture is from the Bently manual. Information technology identifies the major brake components.

Effigy 1

Process
Take lug nut caps off and loosen lug nuts. Jack the machine upwardly and put the rear end upwards on jack stands. Raising the unabridged rear finish makes the job much simpler and safer. Remove wheel.

A8 Rear Restriction Assembly.

Using a xv mm open ended wrench, hold the nut shown in the picture below (part of Item 3, Figure i). Using a 13 mm socket or wrench, loosen the bolt just inboard of it (Figure 1, particular 1). Repeat for 2nd bolt associates.

Use a 15 mm open end wrench to hold the nut from spinning while loosening the bolt just inboard of it. The tiptop bolt has already been unscrewed.

Remove caliper associates past lifting it up and off. Have wire prepare to tie it up or residual information technology on the intermission arm. Exercise not allow information technology to hang from the brake line!

If removing rotors to supervene upon them or to have them turned, remove the two carrier retaining bolts (Figure 1, Item 4) using an 8mm allen head socket. Remove carrier.

Rear caliper and rotor removed. Piston has not been pushed back in cylinder yet.

There are several ways to go the piston back in the caliper. Information technology must be screwed in using a clockwise motion with force per unit area on the piston. This can be accomplished by using a big C-clamp and aqueduct lock pliers or by ownership the caliper tool set for disc brakes from Harbor Freight Tool Company. This tool not only provides the pushing force, but also screws the piston dorsum in at the aforementioned fourth dimension.

Caliper tool ready from Harbor Freight Tools.
Part number 40732. This makes the chore really like shooting fish in a barrel!

Using the Harbor Freight tool is the easiest way to go the piston back into the caliper. You won't damage the piston boot with this tool. It pushes and turns the piston dorsum in.

Using a big C-clench, identify slight pressure on the piston.

With pressure on the piston from the C-clench, use aqueduct locks and screw the piston in using a clockwise motion. Ensure the piston rubber boot is not caught upward in the channel locks. This tin cause it to tear and then y'all will need a new caliper sooner or later due to piston condign contaminated.

Turn the piston in about 1/2 turn, then readjust the C-clamp to utilize pressure again. Each time the piston is screwed in, the C-clamp must be tightened. It's a real pain to practise. With the Harbor Freight tool, it's a cakewalk. If you plan on doing the rears more than than one time, it would be a good investment. If using the C-clamp method, brand sure you have at least a 6" C-clamp.

Piston screwed all the way into cylinder. Ensure you screw it all the mode in otherwise there will non exist plenty clearance to get the caliper over the new pads.

Make clean all brake components with brake cleaner and rags. Pull the small-scale boot off the caliper associates (Effigy 1, Item vi). Lube the associates with caliper lube. This allows the restriction caliper to float improve due to braking forces and brake pad wear.

Installation of New Components
Prior to performing installation, accept a suspension and wash your hands! Remove all grease from them. If you bought new rotors, clean the rotor off of all protective material and paint. Wash your easily again and ensure they are clean earlier reassembling.

Evan Waterloo, using his Dad's DA sander to make clean and
scuff the surface of the rotors (forepart rotor shown).

Prior to installing the new rotor, take some grease or caliper lube and put information technology on the hub where the rotor comes in contact. This volition prevent the rotor from rusting to the hub assembly.

OEM pads. The OEM pads come up with new bolts.

Install new rotor.

Install carrier subclass using 8 mm allen caput bolts. If using OEM pads, remove backing sticker and place both pads in carrier assembly.

Pads placed in carrier assembly prior to installing caliper.

Install the caliper on the carrier assembly. When doing this, ensure both pad springs are properly seated and the guide pins are pushed in and out of the fashion. Start the bolt (Effigy ane, Item 1) on the tiptop first (don't tighten it, just get a few turns on information technology) and and so compress the springs past pushing down on the caliper and starting the lesser bolt.

Tighten both bolts downward, torque to 35 Nm. Always supervene upon bolts with new, OEM pads come with new bolts.

Completed rear brake job. Cleaning all the components
prior to installation is an of import step!

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Source: http://audi-diy.blogspot.com/2007/11/audi-a8-replacing-rear-pads-and-rotors.html